GARDENING WITH THE
SEASONS
BY
HARLAN H.D. ATTFIELD
VITA publication
ISBN 0-86619-124-0
[C] VITA. Inc. 1979
VITA
1600 Wilson Boulevard, Suite 500
Arlington, Virginia 22209 USA
Tel: 703/276-1800 . Fax: 703/243-1865
Internet: pr-info@vita.org
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1 Deciding what to grow
2 Learning to sow
3 Step-by-step gardening guide
4 Planting directions for each vegetable
INTRODUCTION
Gardening with the Seasons has been adapted from a booklet
prepared as
part of an innovative and meaningful approach to community
development
that is underway in Bangladesh. The Sylhet Package Program
is funded
by International Voluntary Services, Inc. (IVS), a respected
US-based
private development organization, in cooperation with three
local agencies--the
Rural Development Training Institute, the Bangladesh Rural
Advancement Committee and the Government's Integrated Rural
Development
Program. In summary, the "package" project
involves extension work to
promote production of vegetables, high-yielding rice, fish,
and ducks;
health and family planning; functional education; and
cooperative development.
Mr. Attfield, the author, has been associated with VITA as
an expert
Volunteer and is the author of a number of books and
articles, including
Raising Rabbits, published by VITA. VITA is pleased to be
able to make
available the work of this author and the fine program of
which he is
a part.
DECIDING WHAT TO GROW
Generally
people plant the vegetables they like to eat. But good
gardeners should also consider food value because some
vegetables are
richer in value than others. Vegetables should be selected
that are easy
to grow under local soil conditions, add richness to the
soil, and are
resistant to insects and disease.
Fresh
vegetables are an excellent source of minerals and vitamins.
They contain many of the minerals, such as calcium and iron,
which the body
utilizes to make bone, teeth and blood. They also provide
important vitamins,
mainly Vitamin A, the B vitamins, and Vitamin C.
Vitamin A is needed for healthy eyes and good vision. A lack
of this
vitamin can cause eye disease and even blindness among
children. The best
source of this vitamin is dark green, leafy vegetables,
yellow fruits,
yellow sweet potato, butter, eggs and liver.
B vitamins are needed for healthy skin, eyes, nerves, and
good blood. A lack
of these vitamins can cause poor blood (anaemia), weakness,
dry scaly skin,
swelling of the body, and even poor mental health. The best
source of
these vitamins is green. leafy vegetables, pulses (beans,
peas, soybean,
peanut, dhal, etc.), raw hand-pounded or par-boiled (cooked
in the husk) rice,
whole wheat flour (atta), meat and liver.
Vitamin C helps prevent infections, helps cuts and wounds to
heal quickly,
and keeps the gums around the teeth healthy. The best source
of this vitamin
is green leafy vegetables, guava, papaya, amlaki, oranges
and lemons.
Charts 1 and
2 show which vegetables are the richest and poorest source
of these important vitamins and minerals. A regular supply
of fresh vegetables
from the garden can mean good health and good eating for the
whole family.
CHART 1
GARDEN
VEGETABLES CONTAINING LOTS OF VITAMINS AND MINERALS
Listed in
order of their richness or food value. Underlined items
show which
part of the vegetable contains the most food value.
1.
Black Colocasia leaves
14.
Coriander leaves 26.
Chinese cabbage,
(Krisno kochu
pata) (Ohonia pata)
pak-choy and
pe-tsai
2.
Carrot, leaves and root
15.
Indian Spinach 27.
Okra
(Gazor)
(Puee shak)
(Dherosh)
3.
Turnip leaves
16. Cowpea,
leaves and 28.
Sweet corn,
(Shalgom
pata) pods (Barboti)
tender (Bhutta)
4.
Beet leaves
17. Soybean,
green beans 29.
Peas
(Beet pata)
(kochi Soybean)
(Motor)
5.
Fenugreek leaves
18. Cauliflower,
flower 30.
French beans
(Methi
pata) and leaves
(Farash)
(Fool kopi)
6.
Radish leaves
19.
Broccoli 31.
Potato, leaves
(Moola
shak) (Broccoli)
and tuber
(Gol
aloo)
7.
Pigeon peas, tender
20.
Jute leaves
(kochi
Orhar) (Patt shak)
32.
Tomato
(Tometo)
8.
Kohlrabi leaves
21. Spinach
33.
Pointed gourd,
(Olkopi
shak) (Palang shak)
gourd and leaves
(Patol)
9.
Sweet potato (red),
22.
Mustard, arden
leaves and
root (Lai shak)
(Misti aloo,
lal)
34. Onion leaves,
23.
Field bean, tender
green (Piaj pata)
(Sheem)
10. Red
Amaranth
(Lal shak)
35. Sweet pumpkin
24.
Sword bean, tender
leaves (Misti
11. Green
Amaranth (Makhon
sheem) kumra shak)
(Danta
shak)
36.
Cabbage
25.
Bitter gourd. gourd (Badha
Kopi)
12. Mint leaves
and leaves
(Pudina
pata) (Utchay and
Karolla) 37.
Colocasia root
(Mookhi)
13. Celery
leaves
(Randuni
shak)
38. Lettuce, leafy
(Salad pata)
CHART 2
GARDEN
VEGETABLES CONTAINING VERY FEW VITAMINS AND MINERALS
Listed in order of their food value
1. Eggplant
9. Ash gourd
(Begoon)
(Chal kumra)
2. Onion, small
red 10. Radish root
(Piaj)
(Moola)
3. Pumpkin,
yellow 11. Snake
gourd
(Holud kumra)
(Chichinga)
4. Beet
root 12.
Vegetable marrow
(Beet)
(Dhundul)
5. Colocasia
stem 13. Bottle
gourd
(Mukheer
data) (Lau)
6. Pumpkin
flowers 14.
Cucumber
(Kumra
fool)
(Shosha and Kira)
7. Coco yam
15. Momordica c.
(Chupri
aloo)
(Kakrol)
8. Turnip
root 16. Ridge
gourd
(Shalgom)
(Jhinga)
CHART 3
VEGETABLES
EASY TO GROW AND RICH IN VITAMINS AND MINERALS
1. Black
Colocasia 7. Green
Amaranth 13. Field Bean
2. Carrot
8. Indian Spinach
14. Sword Bean
3. Radish (for
leaves) 9. Cowpea
15. Bitter Gourd
4. Pigeon
Pea 10. Soybean
14. Okra
5. Sweet
Potato 11. Jute
17. French Beans
6. Red
Amaranth 12. Mustard,
garden 18. Pointed Gourd
LEARNING TO SOW
Many garden
vegetables have traditional planting seasons, as shown
in Chart 4. While the customary months for preparing the
ground and sowing
the seeds are during winter, some vegetables can be planted
and grown at
almost any time. In order to keep a garden producing the
year round, proper
planting schedules need to be established and followed. The
Planting Calendar
gwtx6.gif (600x600)
shown on the next page was used in Sylhot. This calendar
should serve the
home gardener only as a guide because different geographic
regions will have
different climates. Each gardener should familiarize himself
with local
variations in climate and try different planting times. Only
then will he
be able to set up a Planting Calendar based on the climatic
conditions of his
region.
CHART 4
VEGETABLES AND THEIR SEASONS
Summer
Winter
Round the year
Ash gourd
Beet
Mustard
Black colosasia
Bitter
gourd Broccoli
Onion
Cowpea
Jute
Carrot
Pea
Eggplant
Kakrol
Cauliflower
Pigeron
Green Amaranth
Pointed gourd
Cabbage
Radish
Indian spinach
Ridge
gourd Chinese cabbage
Spinach
Okra
Snake
gourd Field bean
Sword bean
Papper (hot)
French bean
Tomato
Red Amaranth
Kohlrabi Turnip
Sweet potato
STEP-BY-STEP GARDENING GUIDE
To be
successful in growing food at home, some basic gardening
knowledge is necessary.
1 GARDEN LOCATION
The garden should be located where it will receive sun
most of the day. Its size will depend on what is being
grown and how much time is available to work on it. A
small, well cared for garden is more productive than a
large, neglected one. The garden should also be located
near the home where it will be more convenient to care for
and where vegetables can be picked just before cooking when
they are at the peak of freshness. As the garden will need
watering from time to time, it should be near a source of
water, such as a
pond, canal. river, ringwell or tubewell. Some people have
been able to
raise a few vegetables using only the dirty water from the
kitchen. During
the rainy season extra water will not be needed. At this
time, the garden
should be located on land that does not become flooded. Soil
must breathe
air, and land that is under water cannot do so. Plants
growing on very wet
land will grow slowly and turn yellow. As most homes are
built on slightly
raised land, enough space can probably be found around the
bari for a family
garden.
2 FENCING
Once a good location is found for the garden, the next step
is to build a strong fence to keep out chickens, goats and
cattle. It is useless to start a garden until this is done.
Most people find that a fence made of local materials is
cheap and satisfactory. Many gardeners make their fences
with
bamboo; others use different kinds of bushes or branches
with
sharp thorns or spines. Some gardeners make a permanent
"living
fence" by planting certain types of trees or bushes
around the
edge of the garden. Pigeon pea (Orhar) makes a good fence,
and at the same time
produces food for the family. Some farmers in other
countries use cassava
(Shimla aloo) for the same purpose. Generally, fairly large
stems are planted
close together. After they are growing well, the tops are
occasionally cut
off so the stems grow stronger and thicker. The spaces
between the stems are
closed with sticks or stakes of bamboo. People who use these
fences are
able to harvest the cassava roots on each side of the fence
for many years.
Whatever type of fencing is used, it must protect the garden
from all the animals
around the home (Illustration 1).
3 PREPARING THE LAND
Almost any type of soil can be made to produce tasty
vegetables.
If the land around the house is already fertile, the task
will be to keep it fertile; if it is very poor, it will
probably
need some manure and maybe some commercial fertilizer. But
in
most cases the land will produce enough vegetables without
commercial
fertilizer. Of course, the garden must be in good
order and kept in good condition. When the soil is in good
condition, it is loose in texture and easy to work. It must
also contain plenty of plant food, the food that the roots
absorb to feed the
entire plant. The best way of producing these two conditions
in the soil is to
use plenty of organic material, such as animal manure,
sewage and sludge, sweepings,
bazar garbage, ground oil cake and fish meal, rotted water
hyacinth and compost.
Compost is a type of fertilizer made by mixing together
leaves, grasses,
straw, wood ashes, cowdung and other waste materials. VITA's
Technical Bulletin
No. 8 explains how compost can be made using materials
easily found around the
home.
The hoe is a
convenient tool for preparing the garden plot. At least
two weeks before planting, the soil should be spaded or
plowed to a depth of five
to eight inches or more (Illustration 3). After the soil is
broken this way, it
should be spaded again several days later to make the pieces
of earth smaller. If
there is grass growing where the garden is to be placed,
care must be taken to pull
out all the grass and grass roots before planting. Break the
grass and earth into
small pieces with the hoe so they can be easily lifted. Then
shake all the earth
off the grass roots. Any grass roots that fall must be
picked up and removed
or they will start to grow again. If there are plenty of
pieces of DEAD grass and
weeds in the garden, they should be dug into the soil. They
will later rot and
make the soil richer. Living weeds and grass should be
removed and later used
for compost.
Illustration 1.
"Automatic watering: using a tubewell
and bamboo pipe.
Illustration 2.
A garden needs a strong fence.
lllustration 3.
Hoe or plow the soil to a dept of 5 - 8
inches or more.
Illustration 4.
Use stakes to mark off the size of the bed.
Illustration 5.
Loosen the soil with your hoe.
Illustration 6.
Add well-rooted manure and other organic
materials.
Illustration 7.
Mix manure well into the soil.
Illustration 8.
Make furrows (ditches) along the edges of
the bed.
Illustration 9.
Smooth and flatten the top of the bed.
Illustration 10. A
mound ready for planting.
Some vegetables
will not grow well if the soil in the garden is too
acidic or sour. Some vegetables, like beet, okra, spinach,
onion and lettuce seem
to grow better when lime or wood ashes are added to the
garden soil. A general
recommendation is to spread 1/4 to 1/2 pound (2 to 4
chattacks) of lime (chun)
or wood ashes on every square yard of garden space, and then
dig it into the
first four or six inches of soil. It should be remembered
that lime does not have
to be applied often, usually once every year or two will be
enough.
4 RAISE THE SOIL INTO BEDS OR MOUNDS
It is possible to grow vegetables on flat land, but most
gardeners
find that plants grow better if grown on raised
"beds" or
"mounds." Generally, vegetables are planted on
beds that are
two to three feet wide. The length can be as short as 10
feet
or as long as 100 feet. If the garden is to be hand-watered
using a watering can or earthen pot, then all the beds can
be
the same size, perhaps three feet wide and 10 feet or more
in
length. If there is a tube-well nearby, the garden can be
irrigated by running water down the furrows (ditches)
between the beds (Illustration
2). If "furrow-irrigation" is to be practiced, the
suggested bed sizes given
in Chart 7 should be followed.
Here is how
to make the beds. Start by staking out the four corners of
the future bed (Illustration 4). Dig up the soil and add
some well-rotted
(black) manure at the rate of 4-6 pounds (2-3 seers) to
every three square feet
of bed space (Illustrations 5 and 6). This is a good time to
add any other
organic material available, such as compost, well-rotted
water hyacinth, leaves,
rice hulls and ashes. Now dig the manure and other materials
well into the soil
(Illustration 7). Next, place the soil from the outside
edges of the string into
the center of the bed. This will form ditches all along the
outside of the bed
(Illustration 8). At this point more well-rotted manure or
compost can be added
to the top of the bed and dug into the top 3 to 4 inches of
soil.
Commercial fertilizers
may be used if there is a lack of animal manure or
compost. In this case, 1/4 pound (2 chattak) each of Urea,
TSP and MP can be used
for every bed 3 feet wide and 10 feet long. The fertilizer
should be spread
evenly over the top of the bed and dug into the top 4 inches
of soil.
Finally, make
the top flat by pushing the earth back and forth with
the hoe until the bed stands 6 to 8 inches above the level
of the ground (Illustration 9).
During the monsoon many gardeners raise the earth in their
beds
even higher, and sometimes support the sides of the beds
with pieces of split
bamboo and stakes. This keeps the excess water drained from
the beds and allows
the plant's roots to grow strong and healthy. When the work
is finished the
beds should be smooth on top with no large pieces of earth
to be seen.
Some
vegetables can be grown on mounds around the edges of the garden,
or in other places around the house. Chart 5 lists the
vegetables which are
usually grown on mounds. With the exception of black
colocasia, pigeon pea and
eggplant, these plants are all "climbers" and will
need some sticks, bamboo
branches, a trellis, or even a house on which to grow.
To make a
mound, start by digging a pit 1-1/2 feet deep and 1-1/4 feet
wide. Next, fill the pit with some rotted manure, compost,
or any other organic
material available. Add earth and mix well. Mound the earth
up until a small
hill is made. Flaten the top and press down the earth in the
middle to make a
lip or ridge all around the top edge of the mound
(Illustration 10).
CHART 5
VEGETABLES COMMONLY PLANTED ON MOUNDS
Ash
gourd Cucumber(*)
Pointed gourd
Bitter
gourd Eggplant(*)
Pigeon pea(*)
Black
Colocasia Field bean
Snake gourd
Bottle
gourd Indian spinach(*)
Sword bean
Cowpea(*)
Kakrol
Sweet pumpkin
A
"star" after a vegetable means it can
be planted in mounds or beds.
5 TIME TO PLANT
Some vegetables are easy to grow and can be planted directly
in the beds. Other vegetables are delicate and should be
started in a seed-box or seed-bed and later moved
(transplanted)
to the permanent beds. Chart 6 shows which vegetables
are easy to plant and which ones need special care.
CHART 6
VEGETABLES THAT
SHOULD SEED TO PLANT DIRECTLY IN
THE GARDEN
BE
TRANSPLANTED
Broccoli Black
Colocasia Onion
(roots)
Cabbage
Peas
Cauliflower
Beet Pigeon pea
Chinese
cabbage Bitter gourd
Pointed gourd
Eggplant
Carrot Patato
(tuber)
Indian
spinach
Coriander
Radish
Lettuce
Cowpea
Red Amaranth
Mustard
Cucumber
Soybean
Pepper
Field bean
Sweet corn
Spinach
French bean
Sweet potato
(cuttings)
Tomato
Green Amaranth
Jute
Sweet pumpkin
Kohlrabi
Sword bean
Okra
Turnip
Germination
Test. Sometimes gardeners sow too many seeds because
they are not sure if all the seeds will sprout. However, a
simple "germination
test" can determine the quality of the seeds and
indicate what percentage
of the seeds will grow. Count out ten seeds and put them on
a soaked
piece of paper or cloth (Illustration 11). Roll up the paper
or cloth and
put one end into a cup filled with one inch of water
(Illustrations 12 and
13). When the seeds have had time to sprout in four to ten
days, carefully
unwrap the paper and count the number of seeds that have
sprouted (germinated).
If eight out of the ten seeds have small sprouts growing out
of them, this
indicates that 80% of the seeds are good (Illustration 14).
Direct
Sowing. Seeds can be planted directly in the garden by the
"drill" method or the "broadcast"
method. A "drill" is a very small furrow
(narrow groove) made on the top of the bed for planting
seeds in a row. It
can be made with a pointed piece of bamboo or the corner of
a hoe. The drill
should only be slightly deeper than the size of the seed.
Some gardeners
use two stakes and a piece of string stretched between them
to keep their
rows straight. Once the drills are made, the seeds can be
planted and covered
with earth. Remember: a plant will probably grow wherever a
seed is placed.
If the seeds are too close together, the plants will not
have enough room to
grow large and healthy. Chart 7 shows how much space is
needed between each
plant in the row; it also tells how many rows of plants can
be planted on each
bed. If two rows are needed, then plant one row near each
side of the bed,
but no closer than 4-5 inches from each edge. Always start
by planting the
two sides of the beds; if a third or fourth row is needed,
they should be
evenly spaced between the two outside rows.
Illustration 11.
Count out ten seeds and put them on a soaked
piece of paper or cloth.
Illustration 12.
Carefully roll up the paper.
Illustration 13. Put
one end of the paper into a
cup
filled with one inch of water.
After four to ten days, unwrap the paper and
count the seeds that have sprouted.
CHART 7
FOR FURROW IRRIGATION
Vegetables planted
on Rows of plants
Distance
24 inch wide
beds per bed
between
plants
Beans,
french two
8"
Beet
three
4"
Carrot
three
3"
Chinese
cabbage two
12"
Garlic
four
3"
Kohlrabi
two
6"
Mustard,
leaf two
8"
Onion
three-four
4"
Peas, bush
two
8"-10"
Radish
three
3"
Soybean
two
4"-6"
Spinach
three
6"
Sweet corn
two
8"-10"
Turnip
three
4"
Vegetables planted
on Rows of plants
Distance
30 inch wide
beds per bed
between
plants
Broccoli
two
18"
Cabbage,
drumhead
two
18"
Cauliflower
two
18"
Eggplant
two
18"
Okra
two
12"
Pepper
two
12"
Tomato
two
18"
Thinning. If
the plants grow too close together in a row, it
will be necessary to remove some of them so that each plant
has enough growing
room. Spacing plants properly by removing others is
called thinning." It
might not seem-right to pull up little plants that are
growing well, but
sometimes it needs to be done. With large seeds, like peas,
beans and corn,
it is fairly easy to control how close together they are
planted. Small
seeds, like amaranth and carrot, are harder to space because
they roll off
the hand as fast as they are planted.
Broadcasting. Some seeds can be broadcasted (scattered) over the
top of the bed, as shown in Chart 8. To do this, first make
the top of the
bed smooth. Then broadcast the seed and firm them into the
soil with the
back of a hoe. If the seeds are still visible after pressing
them in, remove
some dirt from the furrows (ditches) between the beds to
cover them. As
the plants grow, the beds can be thinned several times to
provide lots of
tender vegetables. At the last thinning. be sure to leave
enough space between
each plant for its proper growth.
CHART 8
SEED THAT CAN BE BROADCASTED
Beet
Peas
Carrot
Radish
Coriander
Red Amaranth
Green
Amaranth Sweet Jute
Lettuce
Turnip
---------------------------------------------------------
Seed box.
Vegetables to be transplanted are first grown in "seed
boxes" or a specially prepared "seed bed."
Later, they are moved as small
plants to the garden beds, where they continue to grow until
harvest. A
seed box is a flat box made of wood or bamboo. The bottom of
the box should
have small cracks or holes between the boards to allow
excess water to drain
away. The soil in the seed box can be a mixture of one part
well-rotted cowdung
(manure) and two parts sand (Illustration 15). Some
gardeners use a
soil mixture of one part soil, one part rotted manure or
compost, and one part
sand. On the bottom of the seed box, place some straw or dry
grass to cover the
cracks and holes, but not enough to stop drainage. On top of
this straw or
grass, pour the mixture of seed box soil up to a 1/2 inch
from the top of the
box, and press it down with a board or by hand. Before
sowing the seeds in the
seed box, the soil should be moistened, either by
sprinkling, or by letting the
seed box stand half its depth in a pool of water until the
soil absorbs enough
moisture. When the seeds are sown, rows can be made with a
thin board, or
with a pointed stick. Each row should be twice as deep as
the size of the seed,
and 1-1/2 inches apart (Illustration 16). Then the seed is
covered with loose
soil and pressed down gently. If many different kinds of
seeds are being
planted in one seed box. be sure to mark each row or section
of the box in such
a way that the seedlings can be identified when they sprout
(Illustration 17).
The seed box should be kept in a shady place until the seeds
have sprouted. In
the dry season, cover the box with some banana leaves to
keep the soil from
drying out too fast. In order to keep ants away from the
seeds, place legs on
the seed box and set these in cans or pots of water.
If only a
few seeds are to be planted, use a flower pot or shallow
earthen dish and prepare it the same way as a seed box
(Illustration 11).
Seed bed.
Seedlings can also be grown in one corner of a garden bed.
It should be located on high land to allow for good drainage
of water, and
raised 6 to 8 inches above the ground level. The soil should
be loose for
good root growth. If the soil is heavy and sticky, add sand,
cowdung and
rice hulls to improve it. Some gardeners add 1 chatak of TSP
for every 15
square feet of bed space (3 feet by 5 feet). Sometimes ants
try to remove the
seeds. To prevent this the seed can be dipped in kerosene
and then rolled in
ashes.
When the
coated seeds are planted, a little more ash can be spread over
the rows before covering them over with soil. Sometimes it
may be necessary to
cover the seed bed with mats placed over a bamboo frame. The
mats will protect
the seedlings from the hot sun and heavy rains.
After the seeds have sprouted
and are growing, the seed bed can be left uncovered, except
during the hottest
part of the day (10:00 am to 3:00 pm), or when it starts to
rain.
Illustration 14. A
seedbox prepared with a mixture of one-part
well-rotted manure (cow dung) and two-parts sand.
Illustration 15.
Make neat rows with a thin board or pointed stick.
Illustration 16.
Mark the rows so you will recognize the different
seedlings when they sprout.
Illustration 17. Try
to shade the seedlings for 3 - 4 days after
transplanting.
Care of
Seedlings. Water seedlings early in the morning. When
seedlings are watered in the evening, the soil remains damp
and cold throughout
the night. This may cause the tender plants to become
sickly, or rot. After
two weeks the seedlings can be exposed to full sunlight.
This will cause
the plants to grow more slowly, but they will grow stronger
and be better
prepared for life in the garden. This practice is called,
"hardening" the
seedlings.
Transplanting. At about three weeks of age the seedlings are ready
for transplanting. Water the seed-box or seed-bed before the
seedlings are
pulled out, so that the soil will be soft and they will not
suffer
from many broken roots. A small stick or hoe can be used to carefully
lift
the seedlings, while keeping as much soil around the roots
as possible. Be
sure to lift the seedling by the leaves, not the stem. If
the stem is infured
or crushed, the seedling will probably die. Using a stick,
dig a shallow
hole in the garden bed and carefully place the seedling in
the hole at the
same depth it was in the seed-box. Tomatoes can be planted
slightly deeper,
so some of their stem is below the surface of the soil. Now
the hole can be
covered and lightly pressed down by hand.
Try to
transplant on a cloudy day, or late in the afternoon when
the sun is not very hot. Try not to leave the seedlings in
the seed-box
or seed-bed too long. Plants that are long and thin will not
grow properly
when transplanted to the garden. Some gardeners remove the
lower leaves of
the seedlings at the time of transplanting. In this way,
less water is
lost through the leaves, and the plant recovers more
quickly.
If a
seedling falls over, prop it up and pack the soil around the
base of the plant.
Many good
gardeners shade their transplanted seedlings for a few
days with a piece of banana stem (Illustration 18). This
practice is very
good and will help the small plants recover more quickly
from the shock of
transplanting.
Mounds. Growing vegetables on mounds
is very easy. The common practice
among gardeners is to plant three or four seeds in a small
circle evenly
spaced. After the plants are up, all but the strongest plant
is removed.
6 A GARDEN NEEDS WATER
After the seeds or seedlings are planted, they must be
watered. Water will press the soil gently around the
seeds or the roots of the seedlings. There are two basic
ways to water a garden. One is with a can or earthen
pot that is used to sprinkle or pour water on and around
the plants. The other is by putting water into the furrows
(ditches) between the beds. If there is a source of water
nearby, "furrow irrigation" is the preferable
method. Water
thrown on top of the beds causes the loose soil to cake and
become hard. Some
vegetables, like cabbage, tomatoes and cauliflower, are
damaged when water
is sprinkled on their leaves. In addition, when the top of a
bed is wet, it
may seem like enough water has been applied; later it may be
discovered that
there was not enough water to reach down to the roots. Not
only does furrow
irrigation insure that water will reach the roots, but it
also reaches below
the roots to keep the sub-soil moist which in turn protects
the upper soil
from dry-out.
If there is
a tube-well near the garden, a "header ditch" can be
dug to connect the furrows with the well when the irrigation
system is layed
out. A simple way to bring the water from the well to the
header ditch is
to use a bamboo pipe (Illustration 2). The furrows between
the beds must be
made level so that the water does not run off before it has
soaked into the
ground.
Every good
gardener frequently investigates the condition of the soil
under the surface. By digging down to the depth of the plant
roots with a
stick or hoe, it is possible to see whether the soil is too
wet or dry. Too
much water is often as harmful as not enough water. A
uniform moisture supply
should be maintained during the growing season. When the
plants are young
seedlings, the top two inches (5 cm) should be kept moist.
Later, the top two
inches can be dry, but the lower ten inches (26 cm) should
be kept moist.
In average
soils (not too sandy), a one hundred foot furrow can be
filled in ten minutes by continuous pumping with a normal
tube-well hand pump.
If watering is done properly. it will not have to be
repeated for ten days or
two weeks, but this depends on individual garden conditions.
Good gardeners
tell us that the best time to water the garden is late in
the afternoon, when
the sun is low.
7 CARING FOR THE PLANTS' NEEDS
Gardeners have learned many ways to help their plants grow
strong and healthy. Here are a few practices which will
improve
a garden.
Weeding. After planting a
vegetable crop, careful
watch must be kept for weeks. Remove weeds by hand when
the plants are small, later this can be done with a hoe.
Some gardeners advise against loosening the soil with a
hoe, especially during the dry season. They say that this
causes the top-soil to dry out more quickly. and sometimes
damages the plant
roots.
Mulching. For the gardener who
wants to make work easier, weeding can
be reduced by "mulching." Mulching is the old
practice of putting loose organic
material, such as straw, dry grass, leaves, rotted water
hyacinth or rice hulls
over the surface of the beds, around the plants and between
the rows (Illustration
19). Three to four inches of mulch will keep down the growth
of weeds and
grass. During the monsoon the mulch will protect the soil
from washing away.
In the dry season, the mulch will prevent the sun from
drying the soil and
saves irrigation water. Even on the hottest days, if the
mulch is lifted the
soil underneath will be found to be moist and cool. After
two or three months
the mulch rots, and can be mixed into the beds to make the
garden more fertile.
Staking. Tomato plants are
usually tied to bamboo or wooden stakes
with soft twine or cloth to prevent the branches and fruit
from touching the
soil. If tomato plants are allowed to lie on the soil, much
of the fruit may
rot, or be damaged by insects and snails. Tomato plants can
be tied to stakes
on the same day as transplanting. Be careful not to cut the
buried stem or
roots as the stake is pushed into the soil. A strip of cloth
is best for tying
the stem to the stake. Tie it tightly around the stake, but
loosely and gently
around the stem.
Some
gardeners let their tomatoes grow freely on a mulch covering the
top of the bed. This keeps the fruit and branches from
touching the soil
without the use of stakes.
Stopping
Growth. Another practice with tomatoes
is to "prune" (pick
off) the "suckers." Suckers are small stems and
leaves that grow from the
base of larger stems (Illustration 20). Removing the suckers
reduces the amount
of leaf growth, and encourages more fruit to be produced.
Other vegetables
like pumpkins, bottle gourds, ash gourds, and cucumbers, can
be pruned in a
similar way. When too much manure (cow dung) is used in the
garden, vegetables
will grow lots of leaves, but very little fruit. To correct
this, pick off the
fuzzy, green growing tips from the vines. This will stop the
plant from taking
up too much garden space, and force it to produce more
fruit.
Climbing
Plants. Cucumbers, indian spinach,
cowpeas, and bitter gourds
will need some kind of climbing support. Most gardeners use
poles or bamboo
branches. Indian spinach and cucumbers are often tied to the
supports with
strips of cloth.
A trellis
(macha) can be built for pumpkins. field beans, sword beans,
pointed gourds and bitter gourds. Many of these vegetables
will grow nicely over
a fence or the roof of a home. A trellis can be made
anywhere, but a good
location is near the outside edges of a garden. In this way,
space inside the
garden will be saved for planting other vegetables
(Illustration 1).
Manure
Tea. If leafy vegetables grow slowly
and have light green or
yellow leaves, they probably need fertilizer. "Manure
tea" is a good liquid
fertilizer made from fresh manure (cow dung) and water. It
is made easily
by putting two or three handfulls of fresh manure into a
bucket, drum, or
earthen pot and filling it with water. Stir the mixture
occasionally and let
it sit for one week. Before using the liquid, dilute it with
more water until
it is the color of weak tea. After watering the garden, the
tea can be poured
around the base of each plant.
CHART 9
GIVE MANURE TEA TO LEAFY VEGETABLES
Black
colocasia Jute
Cabbage
Mustard, garden
Chinese
cabbage Radish (for leaves)
Green
Amaranth Red Amaranth
Indian
spinach Spinach
8 WATCHING FOR INSECTS AND DISEASE(*)
Most of the insects that plague garden plants can be
controlled
without the use of insecticides. While most gardenera are
aware that toads, spiders, and some birds eat insects, it is
not as widely known that an insect's major natural enemies
are
other insects. These natural enemies might be called
"hunting
insects" because they spend most of their time looking
for
pests to eat. Some of the hunting insects eat a lot of their
prey at one time; others, like the mini-wasps, lay eggs on
an
insect's body which causes it to die. When an insecticide is
used to control a
pest, the problem is often made worse by killing the pest's
natural enemies --
the hunting insects. A plant that is treated with an
insecticide may have the
same pest back a few weeks later only this time in higher
numbers than before.
What happened is that the pest's natural enemies were
accidentally killed off
along with the pest. It is rarely possible to kill off all
the insect pests.
Without any hunting insects to hold them in check, those
that did not die, or
those that flew in from a neighboring yard, were able to
multiply without restriction.
As good
gardeners, it is important not to upset the natural balances that
exist between pest and "hunter." The most common
garden pests are shown in
Illustration 21. All of these pests are easy to remove by
hand. Caterpillars
and bugs can be picked off, while aphids can be crushed by a
hand along the stem.
______________
(*)Adapted from an article by Helga and Bill Olkowski, Pest
Control Experts,
California, U.S.A.
Small, soft insects can be washed off with mild soapy water,
or dusted with
wood ashes. It is not necessary to get all the pests. The
few that are left
behind will be handled by their natural enemies.
Healthy
plants can usually outgrow insect damage, and they are more
resistant to disease. If rich fertile soil and strong seeds
have been used,
and proper care is taken, then plants will not often get
sick. Sometimes,
however, a plant gets very sick. It should be carefully
watched and removed
from the garden if it looks like the disease is spreading to
other plants. If
a serious disease attacks a plant crop, ask the Thana
Agricultural Officer
for advice. He can usually tell you what to do, what kind of
medicine is needed,
and where you can get it.
9 TIME TO HARVEST
Sometimes vegetables bought at the market are stale and
tasteless. This is because many farmers harvest their crop
before it is ripe, and then leave the vegetables sitting
around too long before selling them. In a home garden
vegetables can be harvested when they are ripe and tasty.
Knowing when vegetables are Just right for picking is
something learned with experience. They should be picked
just before cooking because taste and food value begin to
diminish as soon as a vegetable is harvested. The secret to
getting more
food from a garden is to pick everything as soon as it is
ready for eating.
The more that is harvested, the more a garden will produce.
Good examples
are mustard and spinach. If the outer, bigger leaves are cut
continuously as
the plants grow, as many as five harvests may be obtained in
one season.
Sweet potato
leaves are one of the few vegetables that can be harvested
every month of the year. The tender vine tips taste good,
and they
are rich in vitamins and minerals. If vines are planted near
the end of
winter. there will be plenty of tips and tender stems to
harvest all summer
long when other leafy vegetables are in short supply.
CHART 10
HARVEST THESE VEGETABLES OFTEN
Beat
leaves Jute
leaves
Bitter
gourd leaves Mustard
leaves
Black
colocasia leaves Okra,
tender fruits
Cabbage,
outer leaves Pointed gourd
leaves
Cauliflower, outer leaves
Radish leaves
Chinese
cabbage, outer leaves Spinach
leaves
Cowpea,
tips and tender pods Sweet potato
tips (6")
Field
bean, tender pods Sweet
pumpkin tips
French
bean, tender pods Sword bean,
tender pods
Green
Amaranth leaves Red
Amaranth leaves
Indian
spinach leaves Turnip
leaves
10 PLANT AGAIN
In order to provide an abundance of food, a garden should
never be left fallow. As soon as one vegetable is harvested,
another should be planted. "Succession planting"
is the planting of a few vegetables every two or three
weeks during the growing season. This way the harvest does
not come all at once, but rather over a long period of time.
Different planting times should also be tried to determine
which vegetables grow best and how to extend their planting
seasons. The old custom of planting everything at the same
time should be
avoided. A good example is okra. By planting a whole crop of
okra at the
same time, it all ripens at the same time and cannot be
eaten. Then two weeks
later there is no tender okra left in the garden. By
practicing "succession
planting," one row of okra is planted one week, another
row three weeks later,
and so on until four or more rows have been planted. This
will provide a good
supply of okra for many months in succession.
Good
Companions. There are many combinations
of vegetables that
grow well when planted side-by-side in the same row or bed.
Some vegetables
grow faster than others. If grown together, one vegetable
can be harvested
and out of the way while the other continues to grow. Chart
11 shows some
combinations that might be tried in the garden. If both
vegetables are not
planted at the same time, the vegetable listed first should
be planted first.
Saving
Seed. It is often desirable to save the
seeds from garden
vegetable plants. Seeds can be gathered easily from all of
the vegetables
listed in Chart 12. They should be stored in air-tight
containers. Bottles
make good seed containers but they need to be dried thoroughly
in the sun
before filling. Cork the bottles properly and store in a dry
place.
* Gourds,
cucumbers and pumpkins: Take seeds from
a nicely shaped,
medium-size fruit that was picked from a healthy vine. When
it is fully ripe,
mash the flesh with water and let the mixture stand for
several days. Later,
the pulp and water is poured off and the seeds dried on a
flat surface.
*
Tomatoes: Pick very ripe, well-formed
fruit from healthy, strong
plants. Mash the tomatoes thoroughly in a small pot or can.
Fill the pot
with water and let the mixture stand for a couple of days.
The pulp will
float to the top and can be poured off with the water,
leaving the seeds on
the bottom. Wash them in fresh water and spread to dry on a
flat surface.
*
Beans: Simply select the best plants
and leave untouched when the
rest of the crop is harvested. When the pods are brown and
completely dry,
shell out the seeds and save them for next season.
*
Amaranth: Select the healthiest plants
and leave them in the garden
until seeds are produced on the top branches of the plant.
Before the "seed
heads" become too dry, harvest the tops and dry them on
a piece of paper or
tray. To remove the seeds, rub the dry seed heads between
two fingers.
* Corn:
Select the earliest and best ears and let them ripen on the
stalk. Later, strip back the husks and hang the full cobs in
a dry place.
When the kernels have thoroughly dried, shell them out and
store them for
future planting.
CHART 11
THESE VEGETABLES MAKE GOOD COMPANIONS
Cabbage
and Radishes Corn and
Spinach
Cabbage
and Amaranth Jute and
Amaranch
Cabbage
and Lettuce
Onions and Radishes
Carrots
and Radishes Peas and
Carrots
Cowpea
and Amaranch Radishes and
Amaranth
Cowpea
and Indian spinach Tomatoes and
Amaranth
Corn and
Mustard Tomatoes and
Radishes
CHART 12
SAVE SEED FROM THESE VEGETABLES
Bitter
gourd Okra
Chinese
cabbage (Pe-tsai) Peas
Cowpea
Pigeon pea
Cucumber
Pointed gourd
Eggplant
Red Amaranth
Field
bean Ridge gourd
French bean
Spinach
Green
Amaranth Snake gourd
Indian
spinach Sweet corn
Jute
Sweet pumpkin
Kakrol
Sword bean
Mustard
Tomato
PLANTING DIRECTIONS FOR EACH VEGETABLE
Every
vegetable has certain conditions under which it
grows
best. The following alphabetical listing provides
simple
planting instructions for many garden vegetables.
It is
meant only as a guide; a certain amount of experimentation
will be
necessary to accommodate local soil and
weather
conditions. Nevertheless, it does provide the
gardener
with a good starting point for raising a variety
of
garden vegetables.
AMARANTH (LAL AND
DANTA SHAK) <see picture 1>
gwtx37.gif (486x486)
Planting Time: Any
month
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
some compost or cow dung.
Spacing: 3" - 4" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed:
1/4 inch
Days to Germination:
4 - 6
Planting Instructions: Broadcast the seed over well-prepared
beds. Cover lightly
with soil, then water the bed.
Care: Keep the soil moist until the seeds have germinated.
Begin thinning when the
plants are 2 to 3 inches tall. Keep the beds weeded. Give
manure tea to promote
leaf growth.
Harvesting: Pick the leaves often to prolong the harvest
period. The leaves are an
excellent source of vitamins and minerals. Seed collection
is easy.
ASH GOURD <see
picture 2>
gwtx38.gif (540x540)
Planting Time:
March, April, May
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 2 - 3 seedlings per mound
12"
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed:
1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination:
6 - 12
Planting Instructions:
Plant five to six seeds on a mound. When the seedlings are
up, remove all but the best two or three plants.
Care: This vegetable
is an active climber, so it is best to let it grow over a
tree or the roof of a house. Otherwise, it should be tied to
some branches or
grown on a trellis.
Harvesting: The
first fruits will be ready for eating after about 3 months. The
green leaves and stem tips make a tasty vegetable, rich in
vitamins and minerals.
Seed collection is easy.
BEET <see
picture 3>
gwtx39.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
October to December
Soil Condition:
Loose, sandy soil
containing some organic material
(Rotted manure, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 8" -
12" between rows
4" -
5" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination:
5 - 7
Planting Instructions:
The Seed can be planted in rows or broadcasted over the top of the
bed.
Care: If the seed is
broadcasted, the seedlings should be thinned out until the plants
are 4 to 5 inches apart. Keep the beds moist.
Harvesting: Beet
leaves are rich in vitamins and minerals and quite tasty. The root
is ready to eat 2 to 3 months after planting.
BITTER GOURD (KAROLLA)
<see picture 4>
gwtx40.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
February, March,
April
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
a generous amount of organic material,
(cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 2 seedlings
per mount
3 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed:
1/4" - 1"
Days to Germination:
8 - 12
Planting Instructions:
Plant three or four seeds on a mound. Later remove all but
the two strongest looking plants.
Care: A bamboo
trellis can be built for the vines to climb. This is a good vegetable
to plant near the edge of the garden, where the vines can
grow over the fence.
Harvesting: The
gourds are ready for harvesting 3 months after planting. The green
leaves and stem tips make a tasty vegetable, rich in
vitamins and minerals. Seed
collection is easy.
BLACK COLOCASIA
(KRISNO KOCHU) <see picture 5>
gwtx41.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: April
and May
Soil Condition:
Sandy soil rich
in organic materials (compost,
well-rotted manure, etc.)
Spacing: 1 plant per
mount
1 - 2 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Root:
2 - 3 inches
Days to Sprouting: 5
- 7
Planting Instructions:
Plant a piece of root (root-cutting) in each mound. Sometimes
young plants with tiny roots are planted.
Care: Keep the soil
moist, but not too wet. Good drainage is important. Place
earth near the base of the stems four to five times a year.
Remove any rotten stems.
Harvesting: Harvest
both the leaves and the stems. The leaves are an excellent
source of vitamins and minerals. Plants will continue to
produce year after year.
BROCCOLI <see
picture 6>
gwtx42.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
August to November
Soil Condition:
Sandy soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 24"
between rows
18"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed:
1/4 inch
Days to Germination:
3 - 4
Planting Instructions:
Plant seed in a seedbox or seedbed. Transplant when the
seedings are 2 inches tall, about 4 to 5 weeks after sowing.
Care: Some gardeners
shade the seedlings for the first 3 to 4 days after transplanting.
Beds can be mulched to keep the soil moist and control the
growth of weeds.
Give liquid fertilizer (manure tea) several times during the
growing season.
Harvesting: Cut the
first head before the tiny yellow flowers begin to open. More
heads will be Produced. The more heads that are picked, the
more the plant will
produce.
CABBAGE <see
picture 7>
gwtx43.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
August through
October
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(cowdung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 24"
between rows
18"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed:
1/4 inch
Days to Germination:
4 - 9
Planting Instructions:
Plant seed in a seedbox or seedbed. Transplant the seedlings
about 15 to 20 days after sowing.
Care: Many gardeners
shade their seedlings for the first 3 to 4 days after transplanting.
Beds can be mulched to conserve water.
Harvesting: The
heads are ready to eat 3 months after planting. Early picking of the
outer leaves will prolong the harvest period.
CARROT <see
picture 8>
gwtx44.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September to December
Soil Condition: A loose sandy soil.
Avoid too much cow dung and other
manures. Compost can be used.
Spacing: 6" -
8" between rows
2" - 3" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4" - 1/2"
Days to Germination: 7 - 12
Planting Instructions: Seeds can be sown in rows or
broadcasted over the bed.
Seeds can be soaked in water for 12 hours to speed
germination.
Care: Thinning should be done 7 - 10 days after germination.
A second thinning can
be done when the leaves are about 4 inches tall. Too much
cow dung causes carrots
to grow deformed roots.
Harvesting: The young carrots can be harvested 2 months
after planting. Bigger
roots are ready to eat in 3 months.
CAULIFLOWER
<see picture 9>
gwtx45.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
August to November
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
generous amounts or organic material
(compost, manure, etc.)
Spacing: 24"
between rows
18"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4" to 1/2"
Days to Germination: 3 - 6
Planting Instructions: Plant seed in a seedbox or seedbed.
Transplant the seedlings
to permanent beds after 15 days.
Care: When seedlings are set out, press the soil tightly
around the roots. Some
gardeners shade the seedlings for the first 3 to 4 days
after transplanting. Beds
can be mulched to keep the soil moist and control the growth
of weeds.
Harvesting: Ready to eat 3 to 4 months after planting. The
outer green leaves make
a tasty vegetable.
CHINESE CABBAGE
(PE-TSAI) <see picture 10>
gwtx46.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: October-January
Soil Condition: Mix
plenty of
organic material into the beds.
Spacing: 16" -
18" between rows
12"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination: 3 - 5
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or seedbed.
Transplant when seedlings
are 15 to 20 days old. Grow on raised beds.
Care: Lots of moisture in the soil is needed for growth.
Many gardeners mulch the
beds. Give liquid fertilizer (manure tea) several times
during the growing season.
Harvesting: The vegetable is ready within two months after
sowing. Cut and eat
the outer leaves to prolong the harvest. Seed collection is
easy.
COWPEA <see
picture 11>
gwtx47.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March to July
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(compost, manure, etc.)
Spacing: 2-3 plants
per mound
2 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination: 4 - 5
Planting Instructions: Plant four to five seeds on a mound.
Later, remove all but
the srongest two or three plants. Seeds can also be planted
in rows (6 inches
between plants, 2 - 3 feet between rows) or broadcasted over
the top of the bed.
Care: Provide a large branch or trellis for the plants to
climb. Watch for small
insects on the tender beans. Dust with ashes, if necessary.
Harvesting: The young beans are ready to eat five to eight
weeks after planting.
The green leaves and tender stem tips make a good vegetable,
rich in vitamins and
minerals. Seed collection is easy.
CUCUMBER <see
picture 12>
gwtx48.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: April - May
October - November
Soil Condition: Soil containing a
generous amount of organic material
(cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 2 - 3
plants per mound
2 - 3 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination: 4 - 8
Planting Instructions: Plant five to six seeds on a mound.
When the seedlings
are up, remove all out the best two to three plants.
Care: During the winter season, cucumber can be grown over
mulched mounds or beds.
In the monsoon, tie the vines to a branch or trellis to keep
the plants off the
ground.
Harvesting: Harvest the fruits when 4 to 6 inches long,
about 3 months after
planting. Pick the fruits often to prolong the harvest. Seed
collection is easy.
EGGPLANT <see
picture 13>
gwtx49.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: February, March,
September and October
Soil Condition: Grows well on sandy
soil containing organic material.
Spacing: 24" -
36" between rows
18" -
24" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination: 6 - 14
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or seedbed.
Transplant when the
seedlings are 4" to 5" high, about 15 days after
sowing. Plants can be grown on
beds or mounds.
Care: When the plants are one foot tall. they should be
supported with a stick.
Water every seven to ten days and give liquid fertilizer
(manure tea) once or
twice before the plant flowers.
Harvesting: The young fruits will be ready to eat about 10
weeks after sowing.
Pick the fruits often to prolong the harvest. Seed
collection is easy.
FIELD BEAN
(SHEEM) <see picture 14>
gwtx50.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: July, August,
September
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(compost, manure, rotted leaves)
Spacing: 1 - 2
plants per mound
4 - 6 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination: 3 - 5
Planting Instructions: Plant four to five seeds on a mound.
Later, remove all but
one or two seedlings.
Care: Many gardeners mulch the mounds after the seedlings
have germinated. Watch
for insect damage on the flowers and tender beans. Dust with
ashes, if necessary.
Provide a large branch or trellis for plants to climb.
Harvesting: Beans are ready to eat about 10 weeks after
planting. Pick the beans
often to prolong the harvest. Seed collection is easy.
FRENCH BEAN
<see picture 15>
gwtx51.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September to December
Soil Condition: Mix plenty of
organic material into the soil
(compost, manure, etc.). Bed
should be well drained.
Spacing: 10" -
18" between rows
6" -
8" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1 inch
Days to Germination: 3 - 5
Planting Instructions: Seeds may be planted in rows or
broadcasted.
Care: Beans do not like soil that is too wet. Many gardeners
mulch the beds to conserve
soil moisture and control the growth of weeds. Watch for
insect damage on the
flowers and tender beans. Dust with ashes, if necessary.
Harvesting: Beans are ready to eat about 10 weeks after
planting. Frequent picking
will prolong the harvest. Seed collection is easy.
GARLIC AND ONION
<see picture 16>
gwtx52.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: October - November
Soil Condition: Well-drained, sandy
soil, containing organic material
Spacing: 7" -
12" between rows
3" -
4" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4 inch
Days to Germination: 5 - 12
Planting Instructions: It takes too long to grow garlic from
seeds. Break apart
an old garlic into cloves (small bulbs). Plant each clove
1-1/2 inches deep in the
garden bed. Soak onion seeds in water for 12 hours. Plant
the seed in a seedbox or
seedbed. When the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches tall,
transplant to the garden beds.
Care: Keep the bed free of weeds. Some gardeners loosen the
soil once or twice a
week.
Harvesting: When the leaves turn brown (3 - 4 months),
carefully dig up the bulbs
and dry them in the sun for a few days. Store them in a
cool, dry place.
INDIAN SPINACH
<see picture 17>
gwtx53.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: Any month
Best Time:
February to June
Soil Condition: Any
soil containing
generous amounts of organic material
(well-rotted cow dung, compost, etc.).
Spacing: 2 feet
row to row
8" -
10" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination: 4 - 6
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or seedbed.
Transplant when the
seedlings are 4 inches tall. Seedlings can be grown on
mounds or beds. Plant
three seedlings per mound.
Care: Keep the soil moist. Tie the plant to a stick. Give
manure tea every
week to stimulate leaf growth.
Harvesting: Begin harvesting when the vine is three feet
long. The more the vine
is cut, the more branches it will grow. Seed collection is
easy.
JUTE (SWEET)
<see picture 18>
gwtx54.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March to May
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
some organic materials (compost,
well-rotted cow dung, etc.)
Spacing: 3" - 4" between each plant
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4 inch
Days to Germination: 4 - 6
Planting Instructions: Broadcast the seeds over
well-prepared beds. Cover lightly
with soil, then water the bed.
Care: Keen the soil moist until the seeds have germinated.
Begin thinning when the
plants are 3 inches tall. Keep the beds weeded. Give manure
tea to promote leaf
growth.
Harvesting: Start picking the leaves 1 month after planting.
Stems can be
harvested for fiber after 5 months. The leaves are a good
source of vitamins
and minerals. Seed collection is easy.
KAKROL <see
picture 19>
gwtx55.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March to August
Soil Condition: Any soil well prepared
with cow dung or compost
Spacing: 1 plant per
mound
3 - 5 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Root: 3 inches
Days to Sprouting: 3 - 4
Planting Instructions: Plant one root cutting per mound.
Select pieces of root
from healthy, productive vines. Plants will continue to
produce year after year.
Care: Put a large bamboo branch into the ground for the
vines to climb. Mulching
around the plants holds soil moisture. and keeps weeds from
growing. Watch for insect
damage. Dust with ashes, if necessary.
Harvesting: The fruits from Kakrol are ready to eat 3 months
after planting. Harvest
before the seeds become too big.
KOHLRABI <see
picture 20>
gwtx56.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
September, October
November
Soil Condition: Any soil well prepared
with cow dung or compost
Spacing: 10" -
12" between rows
4" -
6" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4 inch
Days to Germination: 4 - 6
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or directly
in the garden. Transplant
seedlings from the seedbox when the plants are about 2
inches tall.
Care: Mulch the beds to conserve soil moisture and control
the growth of weeds.
Harvesting: Once the bottom of the stem has reached two or
three inches in diameter,
it is ready to harvest (2-3 months).
MUSTARD (LAI
SHAK) <see picture 21>
gwtx57.gif (600x600)
Planting time: September to December
Soil Condition: Any soil rich in
organic materials (rotted cow dung,
compost, rotted leaves, etc.)
Spacing: 18" -
24" between rows
8" -
12" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4" - 1/2"
Days to Germination:
3 - 5
Planting Instructions: Plant the seeds in a seedbox or
directly in the garden
(in rows, or broadcasted).
Care: If seeds are broadcasted, the seedlings should be
thinned out to stand 8 to 12
inches between plants. Mulch the beds to conserve soil
moisture and control the
browth of weeds. Give liquid fertilizer (manure tea) several
times during the growing
season. This will encourage more leafy growth.
Harvesting: The vegetable is ready to eat within two months
after sowing. Cut and eat
the outer leaves often to prolong the harvest. Seed
collection is easy.
OKRA <see
picture 22>
gwtx58.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: February to May
August to October
Soil Condition: Any soil well prepared
with cow dung or compost. Some
gardeners add lime to the soil two to
four weeks before planting.
Spacing: 24" -
30" between rows
18" -
24" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination: 5 - 8
Planting Instructions: Seeds may be planted directly in the
garden. Keep the soil
moist until the seeds germinate.
Care: Mulch the beds to conserve soil moisture and control
the growth of weeds.
Harvesting: Pick the fruits before the seeds are too big.
Dried okra seeds are good
to eat. Prepare them like dry lentils or beans. Seed
collection is very easy.
PEA (BUSH TYPE)
<see picture 23>
gwtx59.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: October and November
Soil Condition: Mix plenty of
organic material into the beds.
Spacing: 18" -
24" between rows
6" -
8" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1 inch
Days to Germination: 6 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds directly in prepared
beds. Seeds can either be
broadcasted or planted in lines (rows).
Care: Lots of moisture in the soil is required for good
growth. Many gardeners
mulch the beds. Provide short sticks to support the plants
if needed. Peas are
good to grow along the fences of a garden.
Harvesting: The young pods are ready to harvest about 7 to 8
weeks after sowing.
Save seeds when the pods are dry after four months.
PEPPER (HOT)
<see picture 24>
gwtx60.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March to May
October to December
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
organic materials (Well-rotted cow
dung, compost, rotted leaves, etc.
Spacing: 2 feet
between rows
12" -
18" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination: 5 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or seedbed.
Some gardeners soak
the seeds for 12 hours before sowing. Transplant the
seedlings to a permanent
bed after one month.
Care: Shade the seedlings for the first 3 to 4 days after
transplanting. Mulch
the beds to conserve soil moisture and control the growth of
weeds. Keep the
beds moist for the first 15 days after transplanting.
Harvesting: Green peppers are ready 3 to 4 months after
planting. Pick the
fully ripe peppers for drying. Seed collection is easy.
PIGEON PEA
(ORHAR) <see picture 25>
gwtx61.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: May - June
Soil Condition: Sandy soil rich in
organic material
compost, rotted
leaves, manure).
Spacing: 3 feet
between rows
2 - 3 feet
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1 inch
Days to Germination: 3 - 5
Planting Instructions: Seeds may be planted on beds or
mounds. Keep the soil
moist until the seeds germinate. Because this vegetable
occupies the ground for a
long time, it is best to plant it near the edges of the
garden, or in other places
around the house.
Care: Some gardeners put a mulch around the plants to
conserve soil moisture and
control the growth of weeds.
Harvesting: Plants flower when the weather turns cool. Pods
are ready for picking
in December or January. Seed collection is easy.
POINTED GOURD
(PATOL) <see picture 26>
gwtx62.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March to August
Soil Condition: Any soil well prepared
with cow dung or compost.
Spacing: 1 plant per
mound
3 - 5 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Root: 3 inches
Days to Sprouting: 3 - 4
Planting Instructions: Plant one root cutting per mound.
Select pieces of root
from healthy, productive vines. Plants will continue to
produce year after year.
Care: Put a large bamboo branch into the ground for the
vines to climb. Mulching
around the plants holds soil moisture, and keeps weeds from
growing. Watch for
insect damage. Dust with ashes, if necessary.
Harvesting: The fruits from Patol are ready to eat 2 months
after planting.
Harvest before the seeds become too big.
RADISH <see
picture 27>
gwtx63.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: July to December
Soil Condition: Loose, sandy soil
containing organic material (rotted
cow dung, compost, etc.).
Spacing: 8" -
10" between rows
3" - 4"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seeds:
1/4" - 1/2"
Days to Germination: 3 - 4
Planting Instructions: The seeds can be broadcasted or
planted in rows. Some
gardeners boardcast seeds thickly, and harvest the small
plants as a leafy
vegetable.
Care: Keep the beds moist and free of weeds. Watch for
insect damage on the
leaves. Dust with ashes, if necessary.
Harvesting: The leaves are ready to harvest 15 to 20 days
after planting. The
root is ready to eat 2 to 3 months after planting. Grow this
vegetable as a
"quick crop" for the leaves.
RIDGE GOURD
<see picture 28>
gwtx64.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March, April, May
Soil Condition: Mix plenty of
organic material into the soil
(cow dung, compost, etc.
Spacing: 2 - 3 seeds
per mound
2 - 3 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2" - 1"
Days to Germination:
7 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant four to five seeds on a mound.
Later, remove all
but the three strongest looking plants.
Care: Grow on a trellis or put a large bamboo branch into the
ground for the vines
to climb. In the beginning it may be necessary to tie the
vines to the support.
Harvesting: The gourds are ready for eating 10 to 12 weeks
after planting.
Keep gourds picked off the vines to prolong the harvest.
Seed collection is easy.
SNAKE GOURD
<see picture 29>
gwtx65.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: March, April, May
Soil Condition: Mix plenty of
organic material into the soil
(cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 2 - 3
seedlings per mound
2 - 3 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4" - 1"
Days to Germination: 7 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant four to five seeds on a mound.
Later, remove all
but the three strongest looking plants.
Care: Put a large bamboo branch into the ground for the
vines to climb. In the
beginning it may be necessary to tie the vines to the
support.
Harvesting: The gourds are ready for eating 3 to 4 months
after planting. Pick
the gourds often to prolong the harvest. Seed collection is
easy.
SPINACH <see
picture 30>
gwtx66.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September
to December
Soil Condition: Mix plenty of
organic material into the beds.
Spacing: 6" -
8" between rows
6"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/2"
Days to Germination: 3 - 7
Planting Instructions: Soak the seeds for 12 hours. Sow in
rows or broadcast
the seed over the top of a bed. Keep the bed moist until the
seeds germinate.
Care: Many gardeners mulch the beds to preserve moisture and
keep the weeds from
growing. Give liquid fertilizer (manure tea) every week
during the growing
season.
Harvesting: The first leaves will be ready to harvest four
to five weeks after
sowing. Cut the outer leaves often to prolong the harvest.
Seed collection is
easy.
SWEET CORN
<see picture 31>
gwtx67.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September to November
February to June
Soil Condition: Sandy soil rich in
organic materials (compost, well-rotted
manure, etc.)
Spacing: 2 feet between rows
6 inches
between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1 inch
Days to Germination: 4 - 6
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds directly in the garden.
Prepare the beds with
plenty of well-rotted cow dung and compost,
Care: Many gardeners mulch the beds to conserve soil
moisture and suppress weeds.
It corn does not grow well, maybe the soil is acid. This can
be corrected by
adding powdered lime (chun) to the soil.
Harvesting: Harvest the corn when the kernels are still soft
and milky. Seed
collection is easy.
SWEET POTATO
(VINING TYPE) <see picture 32>
gwtx68.gif (600x600)
Planting Time:
For Tubers: October
- November
For Leaves: Any
month
Soil Condition: Sandy, loose soil
containing some well-rotted manure
or compost
Spacing: 2 feet
between rows
8" -
10" between plants
Planting Instructions: Plant by using 1S inch vine cuttings.
The cuttings at the
tip are the best. Plant the cutting at an angle, so that
half (or two-thirds) is
under the earth, leaving the rest of the stem and vine tip
above the ground. If
vine cuttings are not available, cut a sprouting tuber into
sections and plant
the pieces leaving the sprouts above the ground.
Care: Remove weeks once or twice until the vines cover the
beds.
Harvesting: The six inch vine tips make an excellent
vegetable, rich in vitamins
and minerals. Harvest the tips around the year. Tubers are
ready to harvest 5 to 6
months after planting. Let them cure (rest) in an open but
covered place for a week
before eating.
SWEET PUMPKIN
(SQUASH) <see picture 33>
gwtx69.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: August to November
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
generous amounts of organic
material (cow dung, compost, rotted
leaves)
Spacing: 2 plants
per mound
3 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1 inch
Days to Germination: 4 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant five to six seeds on a mound.
When the seedlings
are up, remove all but the best two plants.
Care: Sweet pumpkin can be grown on mulched beds, or on a
trellis to save space.
Over-watering causes excessive leaves and less fruit. If the
leaves become too
many, pinch off the tips of the vine.
Harvesting: Leaves and Stem tips can be harvested after two
months. Fruits are
ready in our months. Seed collection is easy.
SWORD BEAN
(MAKHON SHEEM) <see picture 34>
gwtx70.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: July, August,
September
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
some organic material (compost,
manure, rotted leaves, etc.
Spacing: 1 - 2
plants per mound
4 - 6 feet
between mounds
Depth to Plant Seed: 1-1/1 inches
Days to Germination: 3 - 7
Planting Instructions: Plant four to five seeds on a mound.
Later, remove all but
one or two seedlings.
Care: Many gardeners mulch the mounds after the seedlings
have germinated. Watch
for insect damage on the flowers and stem tips. Dust with
ashes, if necessary
Harvesting: Beans are ready to eat 10 weeks after planting.
Continuously pick off
the tender beans to prolong the harvest. Seed collection is
easy.
TOMATO <see
picture 35>
gwtx71.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September, October
November, December
Soil Condition: Any soil containing
some compost or other organic
materials. The beds should be well
drained.
Spacing: 24" -
36" between rows
18" -
24" between plants
Depth to Plant Seed: 1/4" to 1/2"
Days to Germination: 6 - 10
Planting Instructions: Plant seeds in a seedbox or seedbed.
When the seedlings are
3 inches tall, transfer them to another seedbox. Plant them
deeper than they were
growing in the first seedbox. When the plants are 10 inches
tall, transplant them
to the permanent beds. Some gardeners transplant only once,
while others sow seeds
directly in the garden.
Care: Stake the young plants and prune off the excess
branches.
Harvesting: Leave the tomatoes on the plant until they are
fully ripe, about 3 months
after planting. Seed collection is easy.
TURNIP <see
picture 36>
gwtx72.gif (600x600)
Planting Time: September to December
Soil Condition: Loose, sandy soil
containing some organic material
(rotted cow dung, compost, etc.)
Spacing: 8" -
12" between rows
4"
between plants
Depth to Plant Seeds: 1/2 inch
Days to Germination: 5 - 8
Planting Instructions: Seeds can be planted in rows or
broadcasted over the top
of a bed.
Care: If the seed is broadcasted, the seedlings should be
thinned out until the
plants are each 4 inches apart.
Harvesting: The turnip leaves make a tasty vegetable. The
root is ready to eat
3 months after planting.
========================================
========================================
