INDUSTRY PROFILE #1
WOMEN'S BROADCLOTH
DRESSES
Prepared By
Edward Hochberg
Reviewed By
George J. Coury
Robert W. Rugenstein
VITA
Published By
VOLUNTEERS IN TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE
1600 Wilson Boulevard,
Suite 500, Arlington, Virginia 22209 USA
Telephone: (703) 276-1800, Fax: (703) 243-1865
Telex 440192 VITAUI, Cable: VITAINC
Internet
vita@gmuvax.gmu.edu, Bitnet. vita@gmuvax
Women's Broadcloth Dresses
ISBN: 0-86619-288-3
[C]1987, Volunteers in Technical Assistance
INDUSTRY PROFILES
Introduction
This Industry Profile is one of a series briefly describing
small or medium-sized industries. The
Profiles provide basic information for starting
manufacturing plants in developing nations.
Specifically, they provide general plant descriptions,
financial, and technical factors for their
operation, and sources of information and expertise. The
series is intended to be useful in
determining whether the industries described warrant further
inquiry either to rule out or to
decide upon investment. The underlying assumption of these
Profiles is that the individual
making use of them already has some knowledge and experience
in industrial development.
Dollar values are listed only for machinery and equipment
costs, and are primarily based on
equipment in the United States. The price does not include shipping
costs or import-export taxes,
which must be considered and will vary greatly from country
to country. No other investment
costs are included (such as land value, building rental,
labor, etc.) as those prices also vary.
These items are mentioned to provide the investor with a
general checklist of considerations for
setting up a business.
IMPORTANT
These profiles should not be substituted for feasibility
studies. Before an investment is made in
a plant, a feasibility study should be conducted. This may
require skilled economic and
engineering expertise. The following illustrates the range
of questions to which answers must
be obtained:
*
What is the extent of the present demand for
the product, and how is it now being
satisfied?
*
Will the estimated price and quality of the
product make it competitive?
*
What is the marketing and distribution plan
and to whom will the product be
sold?
*
How will the plant be financed?
*
Has a realistic
time schedule for construction, equipment, delivery, obtaining
materials and
supplies, training of personnel, and the start-up time for the plant
been developed?
*
How are needed materials and supplies to be
procured and machinery and
equipment to be maintained and repaired?
*
Are trained personnel available?
*
Do adequate transportation, storage, power,
communication, fuel, water, and
other facilities
exist?
*
What management controls for design,
production, quality control, and other
factors have
been included?
*
Will the industry complement or interfere
with development plans for the area?
*
What social, cultural, environmental, and
technological considerations must be
addressed
regarding manufacture and use of this product?
Fully documented information responding to these and many
other questions should be
determined before proceeding with implementation of an
industrial project.
Equipment Suppliers, Engineering Companies
The services of professional engineers are desirable in the
design of industrial plants even though
the proposed plant may be small. A correct design is one
that provides the greatest economy in
the investment of funds and establishes the basis of
operation that will be most profitable in the
beginning and will also be capable of expansion without
expensive alteration.
Professional engineers who specialize in industrial design
can be found be referring to the
published cards in various engineering magazines. They may
also be reached through their
national organizations.
Manufacturers of industrial equipment employ engineers
familiar with the design and installation
of their specialized products. These manufacturers are
usually willing to give prospective
customers the benefit of technical advice by those engineers
in determining the suitability of their
equipment in any proposed project.
VITA
Volunteers in Technical Assistance (VITA) is a private,
non-profit, volunteer organization
engaged in international development. Through its varied
activities and services, VITA fosters
self-sufficiency by promoting increased economic
productivity. Supported by a volunteer roster
of over 5,000 experts in a wide variety of fields, VITA is
able to provide high quality technical
information to requesters. This information is increasingly
conveyed through low-cost advanced
communication technologies, including terrestrial packet
radio and low-earth-orbiting satellite.
VITA also implements both long- and short-term projects to
promote enterprise development and
transfer technology.
WOMEN'S COTTON BROADCLOTH DRESSES
Prepared By: Edward
Hochberg
Reviewed By: Robert
W. Rugenstein
George
J. Coury
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
1. The Product
The manufactured products are women's dresses made from
cotton
broadcloth.
2. The Facility
This Profile describes a plant operating with one shift and
manufacturing 72,000 women's dresses a year (1,440/week,
288/day). It also describes a larger plant running a single
shift
and producing 104,000 dresses a year.
Other similar products such as women's and girls' blouses,
cotton
skirts, and school uniforms can also be made at this
facility.
Therefore it is important to have a designer/pattern-maker
readily available to produce properly fitted items as may be
requested by the customer.
GENERAL EVALUATION
The amount of capital required is relatively modest. If the
domestic market can produce the necessary sales and the plant
is
efficiently operated and well managed, prospects for this
industry should be very good.
1. Outlook
A.
Economic
Depends on
existing conditions in the country.
B.
Technical
Good reconditioned
used sewing machines can perform just as
well as some of the items listed in Section D.2 (page 4).
They
can cost half the price of new machines.
2. Manufacturing Equipment Flexibility
The machinery and equipment used to produce dresses are the
same
as those generally used throughout the clothing
manufacturing
business. Therefore, it is possible and strongly recommended
that
other kinds of clothing or other items made from fabric be
made
at this plant. The
plant should not be confined to making a
single item.
3. Knowledge Base
A good business plan is necessary.
A two-to three-year projection
should be prepared and caution taken against overextension.
Management should have:
a) Business experience
b) Knowledge of the field
c) Sources of capital
d) Knowledge of market
e) Knowledge of procurement of material equipment
f) Ability to find government support
The availability of good graders, cutters, and mechanics is
also
very important.
4. Quality Control
Quality control is very important, and specifications vary
from
company to company and garment to garment.
For example, an
entire order can be rejected for as little an error as the
number
of stitches per inch or the tension of the thread.
5. Constraints and Limitations
In the developing nations there is usually an ample labor
pool
easily attracted to this industry. However, there is certain
to
be a shortage of designers, pattern-makers, and possibly
cutters
and mechanics.
Other considerations are:
--No special
transportation requirements, but good highways
would be
helpful.
--Manager and
supervisors should be fully experienced.
--Some operators
will be operating more than one machine.
--After break-in
period, production workers should go on piece
work rates.
--Needs reliable
electric power system.
MARKET ASPECTS
1. Users
The users of this product include women and teenage girls.
2. Suppliers
There are in most urban centers sales representatives of
equipment
manufacturers and jobbers of fabrics.
It may be too
expensive to go to the United States to look for design,
fabrics
and machines. Hong
Kong and Tokyo are also good sources for
these items.
3. Sales Channels and Methods
Sales will be made direct to large stores and to wholesale
houses
for distribution to small retail outlets. The market needed
will
depend to a great extent upon the purchasing power of the
local
population.
One possibility to explore is to contract with U.S. garment
manufacturers that would supply a steady source of work for
the
plant. Large
investments in plant and equipment for exports
should not be undertaken unless there is a written
commitment
from a U.S. or other manufacturer or contractor who can
guarantee
a new outlet for the garments.
4. Geographic Extent of Market
Domestically, these products should be distributed
nationally.
5. Competition
Domestic Market - Competition from imported cotton
broadcloth
dresses should be minimal. But a significant competition
could
come from other plants producing women's cotton dresses, and
from
the part of the population engaging in home sewing.
Export Market - The plant size is too small to compete in
the
export market or to interest U.S. manufacturers unless there
are
similar plants to pool their resources and obtain contract
work.
6. Market Capacity
The market capacity is dependent on local conditions.
PRODUCTION AND PLANT REQUIREMENTS
Requirements
Annual Output:
dresses:
72,000
104,000
1. Infrastructure,
Utilities Small Plant
Medium Plant
Land
1/4
acre 1/3 acre
Building
one story
4,000 s.f.
6,000 s.f.
Power
50-60
hp
60 hp
Fuel
______________ ____________
Water
______________ ____________
Other
______________ ____________
2. Major Equipment
& Machinery Small
Plant Medium Plant
Units
Units
Tools &
Machines
cloth
spreader
(1) (1)
cutting table
(60'x 6') (1)
(1)
cutting
machines
(3) (3)
assorted sewing
machines (20)
(30)
safety
stitch
(2)
(4)
overlock
(1)
(2)
blindstitch
(1)
(2)
single
needle
(16) (22)
belt turners
buttonhole
machine
(2) (2)
buttonsewer
machine
(2) (2)
Support
Equipment & Parts
furniture &
fixtures
model forms
hand trucks
(1)
(1)
steam irons
chairs &
workbenches
work tables
storage shelves
racks
spare parts,
tools
& scissors
truck/van
(1)
(1)
*TOTAL ESTIMATED
COST
of equipment & machinery only
$ 70,0000
$ 82,000
Duty & shipping not included
*Based on $US 1987 prices. The costs provided are estimates
and
are given only to provide a general idea for machinery
costs;
they are not intended to be used as absolute prices. Costs
still
need to be determined on a case by case basis.
*3. Materials & Supplies
Small Plant
Medium Plant
Raw Materials
cotton
material 216,000
yards 300,000 yards
lining
6,000 yards
8,000 yards
hooks & eyes
buttons
zippers
trimmings,
elastic, etc.
tags and
labels 500
gross 700 gross
thread (12,000
yd. cones)
1,000 cones
1,500 cones
Supplies
lubricants
office &
factory supplies
Packaging
hangers &
bags 6,000
dozen 8,500 dozen
shipping cartons
(6
dresses/carton) 12,000
17,000
4. Labor
Small Plant
Medium Plant
Skilled
designer/pattern-maker
1 1
cutters
1
1
operators
20
30
pressers
3
4
floor help
3
3
Semi-skilled
Unskilled
2
2
Indirect
manager
1
1
office
1
1
plant
manager/chauffeur 1
1
5.
Distribution/Supply flow
Small Plant Medium Plant
Amount in/out per
day 288 dresses
400 dresses
6. Market
Requirements Small
Plant Medium Plant
population
2-3 million
7. Other
Requirements Small
Plant Medium Plant
*This includes an approximate amount of materials used over
a
period of a year. It
does not mean that a year's supply must be
stored on the premises.
WOMEN'S BROADCLOTH DRESSES
Floor plan should have at least 4,000 square feet of room.
Flow of work should
go as indicated. The layout is flexible to provide an
efficient work flow.
It should be fairly simple to arrange machines and
operations
accordingly. <see plant layout and work flow>
wbd.gif (600x600)
REFERENCES
Unless otherwise stated, these addresses are in the United
States.
1. Technical Manuals
& Textbooks
Fashion Institute of Technology
7 Ave. & 27 St.
New York, New York 10001
Library and Bookstore with full listing of books on design
and
pattern-making, and marketing.
2. Periodicals
Women's Wear Daily & Daily News Record
Fairchild Publications
7 E 12 St.,
New York, New York 10003
Bobbin Magazine
Bobbin International, Inc.
P.O. Box 1986
1110 Shop Road
Columbia, South Carolina 29202
Apparel World
366 Park Ave., South
New York, New York 10016
Apparel Industries Magazine
180 Allen Street
Atlanta, Georgia 30328
3. Trade
Associations
American Apparel Manufacturing Association
2500 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington, Virginia 22201
(703) 524-1864
National Knitwear & Sportswear Association
366 Park Ave., South
New York, New York 10016
4. Equipment
Suppliers, Engineering companies
Hudson Sewing Machine Co.
109 Johnston St.
Newburgh, New York 12550
(dealer in all types of equipment)
The Singer Company
135 Raritan Center Parkway
Edison, New York 08837
(sewing equipment,
cutting room equipment)
Kurt Salmon Associates
350 Fifth Avenue
New York, New York 10118
(management consultant, consulting services)
5. Directories
Buyers Guide:
A Sourcing Guide for the Apparel Industry
produced by
The Associate Member Congress
American Apparel Manufacturers Association
2500 Wilson Boulevard
Arlington, Virginia 22201
6. VITA Resources
VITA has a number of documents on file dealing with the
textile
and clothing industry. An example:
Selected Information Resources on Textiles.
Compiled by J.A.
Feulner, National Referral Center, Library of Congress, May,
1980. 17 pp. XII-E-1, P.1, 022470, 12.
7. VITA Venture
Services
VITA Venture Services, a subsidiary of VITA, provides
commercial
services for
industrial development. This
fee-for-service
includes technology and financial information, technical
assistance,
market, and joint ventures. For further information,
contact VITA.
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